From the Studio of Alford Wayman, Creek Road Pottery
When I first started firing my Olympic Updraft kilns, it felt like more of a mystery than a method. Over time, through trial, error, and plenty of kiln logs, I’ve learned a few things that helped me get more consistent results and fewer surprises.
If you’re new to gas firings or just beginning with an Olympic Updraft kiln, the following tips may help you avoid some early frustrations. Before you begin, consider reviewing the official Olympic Kiln Manual.
1. Plan Ahead and Batch Thoughtfully
- Load size matters. A full kiln promotes even heating. Sparse loads can lead to temperature swings. Adjust the top damper to help control the exhaust flow.
- Keep records. Document clay types, glaze combos, cone results, firing times, and weather.
- Stack for air flow. Updraft kilns are especially sensitive to stacking. Each load teaches something new.
- Split the flame. Use kiln posts to deflect the flame path away from direct upward flow.
2. Start with a Soft Candling Stage
- Candle at low pressure for 2–4 hours, aiming for 190°F. Especially useful if pots are freshly glazed.
- Leave the top peephole plug out to allow moisture to escape.
- Use a dehumidifier or warming box before firing. More info here.
3. Watch Your Turn Ups — Not Just the Clock
- Flame observation is more reliable than rigid timing.
- The final turn-up should produce flame licking out of the top exhaust hole.
- Pay attention to burner sound, flame height, and external heat signature.
4. Use Consistent Cone Packs in Multiple Zones
- Use cones 5, 6, and 7 on the top, middle, and bottom shelves when first learning the kiln.
- Always position cones where they’re visible through spy holes.
5. Maintain a Clean Burn
- Begin with clean burners and secure fittings.
- Yellow flame often indicates poor air-to-gas ratio.
- A smooth “whoosh” is a good sign. Popping or chuffing suggests issues.
- Keep burners 1 to 2 inches from kiln intake for better air mixture.
- Raise your bottom shelf 6–8 inches off the kiln floor, ideally above the first peephole.
- Read more about orifice and burner design.
Note: Uneven heat often results from shelf mass. Avoid placing heavy shelves near the kiln floor. Open lower levels to heat sources.
6. Reduction Firing: Less is More
- Avoid heavy reduction early. It can stall the climb and alter glaze results.
- Introduce light body reduction just before cone 06 begins to bend.
- Use a small, steady flame at the flue. Avoid black smoke.
- End-of-fire reduction can be tested in 15–60 minute intervals depending on results.
Note: Altitude, gas pressure, and kiln design impact reduction control. Adjust the damper, air intake, and flame gradually.
7. Understand Cooling: It’s Still Part of the Firing
- Allow the kiln to cool naturally over 12–24 hours.
- Do not open the lid until below 250°F.
8. Tune Your Kiln to the Weather
- Use windbreaks or insulation blankets when needed.
- Warm propane tanks in winter with heaters or blankets.
- Dry days will fire faster. Humid days require longer candles.
9. Manual Cone 6 Firing Schedule (No Pyrometer Method)
Visual, sound, and smell-based schedule used at Creek Road Pottery.
- 0–2 hours: Candle
- Hour 1: Low orange flame
- Hour 2: Flame ¼ up wall
- Hour 3: Flame ½ up wall
- Hour 4: Flame fully up wall
- Hour 5: Flame licking out top exhaust
- Hours 6–7: Monitor cone 6 in peephole
- Shutdown: Turn off gas at tank first, then pilot ring
Optional: Add combustibles to flue at shutdown for carbon flashing. Use caution. Place a bisque bowl just below the exhaust port to catch combustibles. Quickly seal off the damper with a kiln shelf to allow the kiln to smoke and burn without air.
10. Your Best Tools: Your Journal and Patience
- “The kiln and cone do not lie. It only tells you what you gave it.”
- Keep notes, cone photos, and finished pot results.
- Refine over time. Each firing adds to your experience.
Bonus Tip: Don’t Rush the Turnaround
With a tight four-day turnaround, dry pots carefully. Use a warming box and schedule bisques in the morning to glaze/fire the next day. Don’t assume more gas equals faster firing — it may stall your climb if overfired.
Kiln Building Resources:
Build a gas kiln from scratch
Convert an electric kiln to gas
Until next time,
Alford Wayman
Connect with Creek Road Pottery LLC
Website | Shop | Blue Sky | Instagram | Facebook | Newsletter
2 responses to “Gas Firing Tips for Updraft Kilns”
Hi CRP (can’t find your name on page),
We had a torchbearer kiln donated to the clay co-op years ago and spent a couple of winters trying to get it to fire and reduce evenly, with little success. We could get to cone 11 at the top with good reduction while it was still oxidizing throughout the bottom half and maybe reaching cone 7-8 on the bottom shelf. After much discussion I converted it to forced air operation, removing the factory atmospheric burners. The results were better and more even over more of the stacking space.
We recently received another of the largest size torch bearers in a donation, and are discussing how to proceed. My feeling is that Olympic’s burners are inherently flawed by not having the flared bell shape exhaust as seen on standalone venturi burners, which introduces turbulence and mixing to the fuel/air mix.
Are you able to fire within 2 cones top to bottom?
Are you able to get reduction throughout most of the stacking space?
I’m hoping you have some answers we may have overlooked.
Hey! Thanks for writing in! Other then the electric kilns from my apprenticeship way back I have only fired updrafts here and nothing else. The can be frustrating but I think once you make it though the dip things work out quite nice. Each of my 3 kilns are different believe it or not! My shorty torch fires a hot bottom and so did my little Amaco. So much so I had to raise the shelves up past the first peephole and allowing more room between the top shelf and the lid. at times for the hot bottoms I did not even use a top cover shelf under the lid. For hot tops I had to regulate how I covered the top draft port and even disabling and plugging off a burner as I thought it might be giving to much heat. So I plugged off burner 6 and only ran 5 worked out great! I also do the reduction at the end. I remove the bottom peephole to draw the flame downward. For oxidation firings I fire with the peepholes out and put them in at the end. Yeah I think folks get frustrated with updrafts as they can be a pain. But they were the only kilns I started with and was forced to fight with them like a mean girlfriend until I worked things out. When I fire large work I raise the bottom shelf to keep the bigs from the cool air on the cool down. I need a way to plug those port holes at the end of a firing. I think wind blows in there..it can be bad in the winter as it cools the kiln to quickly. I have to do a soak at the end to allow the glaze to heal over. I close the top damper to 1/4 open and scale back the gas until the cone stops falling then let in soak on low for maybe 15 to 20 min. Attached is a video I made on it..maybe you already seen it. Let me know how things go. I’m always intrested in how folks are working things out. Keep trying things that may not work. A few things will. It means you are brave!
https://youtu.be/Q0h6ZsOihhs